Oil change

Last night I drained the engine preservation oil and added 6 quarts of mineral oil. I ran out of time to set the engine timing, but that is a quick job I can accomplish next time I’m at the hangar.

While I was changing the oil, I took the time to replace the oil drain plug with a quick drain fitting, and put some RTV between the starter solenoid and the snorkel.

I started by removing the snorkle and inspecting the fuel servo. Sure enough, some preservative oil had drained down the intake pipes and collected in the bottom of the servo. Rather than removing the servo, I was able to suck the oil out using a small piece of flexible plastic hose, and the wiping up the residue. There’s still a film of oil, but no pooling of oil at all.

View down the fuel servo’s air inlet. A small amount of oil had pooled at the back of air intake

Then I removed the bottom set of spark plugs, and rotated the prop a few times to push out the remaining oil. A lot of oil came out of cylinder 2, and just a small amount from the other cylinders. I leveled the airplane to help drain as much as possible. I also used a borescope to check the cylinders and take a few pictures, just because.

A small amount of preservative oil leaks out of the lower spark plug hole on one of the cylinders
Oil from the spark plug hole ran down the exhaust pipes and dripped all over the place. The red bucket caught most of it

With that done, I removed the oil drain plug and let the rest of the oil drain out the bottom.

The original oil drain plug, safety wired to the oil screen cover

After consulting a number of threads from Vansairforce, I left the oil filter alone. This is a new filter added by Lycoming, so I’ll just keep it on for the first 10 hours of engine time. At $40 per filter, no need to waste a new one.

Once all the oil was out, I cleaned and installed the quick drain fitting. I used some loctite to seal the threads, and torqued it to 14 foot pounds, per the table of limits for a 1/2-14 pipe fitting. The quick drain should make future oil changes a lot easier – just push on a drain hose, and push the fitting up and rotate to release all of the engine oil.

Preservative oil draining from the sump. By the time I thought to take a photo, most of the oil had drained out
Oil pan and a bucket collected most of the oil.
The quick drain fitting (finished in blue)
The underside of the quick drain fitting showing the safety wire securing it to the oil screen cover

I then cleaned and reinstalled the spark plugs. After wiping off all the oil, I used some acetone to clean the threads and carefully wiped the spark plugs down. I added some copper based anti-seize and reinstalled, torquing to 35 foot pounds per Lycoming’s spec.

Then I put the snorkle back on, adding a bead of RTV to help protect it from the starter. There’s plenty of clearance, but the RTV will help reduce any chance of rubbing and damage as things heat up, shift around and vibrate etc.

With that done, I poured in 6 quarts of straight mineral oil.

I’m adding Aeroshell 80 straight mineral oil which is SAE-40 oil, and is good for a wide range of outside air temperatures
Oil change complete

New oil return line

Today I installed a new oil return line on the #2 cylinder (front left).

The original line from Lycoming interfered with the snorkel, which is a know issue with the EXP119 engine. Conveniently, Aircraft Specialty make a drop in replacement line for just this problem.

I removed the original line, and test-fit the new one. It worked great, but I couldn’t quite get a flush fit between the flared tube end and the fluid fitting on the engine. After some fiddling around I guessed that the problem was the fitting clocking not being exactly right for the new hose. I removed the fluid fitting, cleaned the threads, and reinstalled it (Loctite 567). Once I had close to the right torque, I slowly rotated the fitting while testing the fit of the flared tube. It was easy to check the alignment by just feeling how much resistance I had on the b nut. Once it fit freely, I stopped rotating the fluid fitting and torqued everything up.

Clearance from the snorkel is perfect.

Old line compared to new line. New line has the red seal on the end
The new line hugs the oil intake pipe, without contacting
Another angle, showing the author

Alt Air and Fuel Controller

The gasket for the fuel controller arrived today, so I went ahead and installed the fuel controller and final torqued the nuts.

Following the engine maintenance manual, I torqued the nuts to 17 foot pounds (204. Inch pounds). The manual assumes there is no adapter, which there is, but this seems like the right value for the size studs that I’m installing onto.

With that done, I worked on the alternate air installation.

The alt air is a backup air intake for emergency use if the aim air intake were to become blocked (ice, bird strike, etc). There is a door on the side of the snorkel that can be opened with a control inside the cockpit. The standard Vans design doesn’t allow the alt air to be closed once it’s opened, so you’d have to take the cowl off to reset it if it were ever pulled. That’s ok, but it means you can’t test the mechanism as part of a run-up before takeoff.

Of course someone had solved this problem and come up with an alternative door design that can open and close using the cockpit control. The only difference is the door itself, it mounts onto the standard location without any modifications. This is what I’m going to install.

I needed to buy a hole saw because I didn’t have anything big enough. The plans called for a hole that is 2 11/16 inches in diameter. The closest diameter I could find at harbor freight was 2 5/8, and when I drilled the hole, it came out slightly over-sized, which was perfect.

Some of the instructions are a bit confusing, but carefully reading and following the steps made sense eventually.

The inlet is glued into position using epoxy.

Fuel controller installed and final torqued
Page 255 in the manual, explaining the torquing instructions
After cutting the hole, it was exactly the size I needed
Cleaned up hole
Dimpling the inlet
The inlet final drilled and dimpled
The alternative door. Seems to be a good design
Gluing the inlet onto the side of the snorkel
Because of the geometry, and the nut plate, there’s a gap to fill around the edge of the flange

Snorkel fitting

Today I worked on fitting the snorkel, completing a few more steps.

With the fuel controller covered in plastic, I placed the snorkel on the flange, and then assessed the alignment at the air filter end, where it attaches to the baffling. The instructions warn that small changes at the fuel control unit can have a large impact on the alignment at the baffling. While true, I found that I needed to take a uniform amount off the fuel control end to get the other end to line up. In total, it was about 3/8 of an inch longer than it needed to be, and after carefully sanding it down, the alignment worked out well. I had to disconnect the oil return line to complete this step, and continually bend it out of the way to avoid interference with the snorkel. I’m hoping that the replacement line I ordered will clear the snorkel, because I’m proceeding with fitting the snorkel before I have the new line in-hand.

Once everything fit, I drilled alignment holes in the air filter end of the snorkel, clecoed them, then marked out the excess snorkel to trim. Then I could take the whole assembly off the airplane and trim the snorkel. I used a hack saw to cut about half an inch off the end of the snorkel, then carefully filed it down until it was flush with the shelf on the air filter holder.

I could then install it back on the airplane, and mix up some epoxy glue to seal the gap between the snorkel and the air filter holder.

Marking the fuel controller end of the snorkel for trimming
Checking the alignment of the snorkel against the fuel controller flange
Checking the alignment of the air filter end of the snorkel with the baffling. The goal is to eliminate any side loading on the baffling, by trimming the opposite end of the snorkel
Snorkel fit looks just about right
After drilling the alignment holes
After trimming the snorkel and carefully filing it to be flush
After sealing the gap around the snorkel with epoxy glue