Left Elevator Trim Tab Hinge and Trailing Edge Wedge

Tonight I match drilled the aft portion of the elevator trim tab hinge, then match drilled the left elevator tip rib assembly, and trimmed the left elevator trailing edge wedge.

This is part way through the match drilling of the aft half of the trim tab hinge. I used a lot of clamps and measured to check that the hinge stayed as straight as possible.

Then I clecoed the elevator tip rib assembly to the forward and aft elevator spars, and bottom skin (left elevator only). I then final drilled the holes common to the spars and tip ribs.

Then I attacked the top skin on the left elevator. The goal is to match drill three holes in the closeout tabs, but before doing so, the closeout tabs need to be supported from behind and in their final position. The first step, which I started on is to trim the trailing edge wedge.

Then the wedge needs to be sanded down on the outboard end where it will eventually butt up against the fiberglass elevator tip fairing. I marked the area that needs to be sanded down, but was too tired to continue tonight.

Assembling Left Elevator

Well, I wrecked my first part tonight. I’m sure it won’t be the last, but it was a really dumb mistake. Nevertheless, I did make progress, clecoing together the left elevator, and then match drilling the forward half of the trim tab hinge.

First I used a step drill to enlarge a couple of holes on the left forward spar. These are for routing cables for the elevator trim servo. The servo sits inside the left elevator, right behind this spar, and has a push rod that actuates the elevator trim tab. I used the drill press and practiced with the step drill on a piece of scrap. It’s easy enough to use, and the holes came out looking pretty good.

I clecoed the forward spar to bottom skins

Then came the mistake. The plans call for the right rear spar to be trimmed, which is easy enough, except I trimmed the wrong end! Unfortunately there’s no way to fix this, and I need to order a new part from Vans. I trimmed this end:

But I should have trimmed this end:

Moving on, I proceeded with the left elevator. Here it is clecoed up to the bottom skin. You can see the two cut-outs, one for the trim tab in the trailing edge, and one for the servo access plate that will screw into some nut plates that are mounted on the doubler.

Now the drilling starts. The forward half of the piano hinge that holds the trim tab is match drilled to the holes in the rear spar (top flange). First, pilot holes are drilled in both the forward and aft sections of the hinge. Then the hinge is separated, and the forward half pilot hole is clecoed to the elevator spar flange. Then all the remaining holes are match drilled. I worked slowly and carefully to ensure the hinge stayed parallel with the spar. Here’s the finished step:

Bent Elevator Skin Closeout Tabs

Last night I bent the elevator skin closeout tabs on both left elevator skins. This required clamping the skins between two pieces of timber, positioning them precisely, and then bending them over. I started the bend using a block of wood, and then switched to the rivet gun with flush set to finish the job. A little squeeze with the hand seamers and they were nice and square.

Drilled Tip Ribs and Fabricated Foam Ribs

Between a couple of sessions yesterday and today, I final drilled the tip ribs and counterweight support skins, trimmed the trim tab skins, then fabricated the foam ribs.

Here is one of the tip ribs and counterweight support skins clecoed and in the middle of being final drilled. I had a hard time getting the front flange of the outboard tip rib to fit correctly inside the skin. The prepunched holes weren’t quiet lining up, so I tweaked the flange with hand seamers and eventually got it to work.

Next I trimmed a couple of pieces off the trim tab skins and the rudder skins. The trimmed parts are the close-out tabs on the edges of the trim tab, and on the rudder where the trim tab fits.

Then I made the foam ribs. This step has you cut out the template from the manual, glue it to the foam, then cut with the bandsaw. Finally, sand each rib to the exact shape. These all came out looking great. It was weird to cut up a page of the manual, but that’s the best option. Any copying of the page could result in a scale issue, or some other distortion. The foam blocks were easy to work with, and while a little time consuming, it was an easy process.

I clamped a straight edge to the sandpaper to ensure the ribs remained square.

Started on the Elevators

Tonight I finished a plywood bracket to hold the Horizontal Stabilizer, then rigged everything up and hoisted it onto the ceiling in the garage. There’s just enough clearance on the storage cupboard doors, but I added some small bits of foam to the leading edge just in case.

Then I started on the Elevators, completing the first few steps. I cut out the ribs and sheer clips, fluted and straightened the outside ribs, and clecoed a bunch of stuff together ready for drilling, hopefully tomorrow.

Here are all the elevator parts, except the foam blocks and rudder skins. With this out on the workbench, the storage cupboards are starting to look empty.

Separating the ribs with tin snips:

Clecoed parts ready for drilling:

Finished Horizontal Stabilizer

After work, and before kids went to bed, I spent about half an hour setting the last 10 rivets in the Horizontal Stabilizer. I had to use a double offset set to get clearance, but it went easily enough. The small rib flanges needed some finessing to get them to line up, but eventually everything came together no problems. Here’s one side, the rivets in question are the 5 in a row closest to the lightening hole.

The black marks on and around the rivet heads are from the electrical tape I’m using on the bucking bar to prevent scratching.

Now that it’s finished, I need to put it somewhere so I can start working on the Elevators. I already have a plan, and tonight I installed hooks and eyelets as a first step, can you guess where it’s going?

Horizontal Stabilizer rear spar flange

Tonight I finished riveting the skins to the rear spar. This was a breeze with the squeezer, and everything ended up looking good.

I took the whole thing out of the cradles and started setting the last 10 rivets, which connect the inboard nose ribs with the front spar and inboard in-spar rib. Unfortunately the squeezer doesn’t fit, so I need to buck these 4-7 and 4-8 rivets. It was too late to make all those loud banging noises, so I’ll leave them for tomorrow after work before the kids go to bed.

Here’s how it looks sitting on the bench:

Ordered Quickbuild Wings and Fuse kits

Today I placed my order for the QB wings and fuselage kits. The estimated lead time is 3 months, which covers the time up to delivery to the Vans factory for quality control inspection. From there, it will be crated and shipped, which will be a few more weeks. Based on my current progress and “velocity”, it should be arriving about the right time.

Looking at the elevator and trim tab plans, it’s going to be quite interesting to build. Lots of small parts, some new material (foam), the dreaded tank sealant, more trailing edge riveting, and (the hardest thing so far), leading edge rolling!

Rear spar rivets

Not much progress today, but I managed to squeeze the rear spar and rib rivets. For one rivet, the rib pulled away slightly, leaving a small gap. I’m not planning to drill and replace, but will get a second opinion. After that experience, I used a clamp for the rest of them and had no issues.

As I moved to riveting the skins to spar flanges, I noticed the skins are not sitting completely flush with the rib flanges, at least in some places. Given that the holes line up, I suspect my spar flange countersinking may be to blame. If the counter sinks are not deep enough, or otherwise incorrect, the skin dimples won’t fully seat in the holes. I set around 10 rivets before I stopped riveting so I can figure out a plan. It’s pretty frustrating, as fixing this would require replacing around 40 rivets, which is always risky. Here’s a picture of the gap on one side. The nearest rivet on the flange marks the first hole, which is sitting correctly, skin flush to spar flange. The rest of the holes are not flush, with a gap of around 0.025 inches (0.5 mm).

I emailed Vans to get an opinion on whether it’s a structural issue as-is. The interlocking of the countersink and dimple is designed to add strength. It’s possible this may also create stress points resulting in possible skin cracks in the future. I’ll see what they say.

Riveted Horizontal Stabilizer Rear Spar

Today I was able to finish riveting the HS skins to the ribs, then rivet the rear spar to the ribs. This took longer than I planned, because of a couple of issues.

As I squeezed the rivets around the edges of the skin, I found one side of one of the the in-spar ribs which I had forgotten to dimple. Lucky it was the inboard rib, and I was able to squeeze-dimple the holes using my pneumatic squeezer. I ended up drilling out a rivet in the process, which wastes some time.

The second issue was that a few of my countersink holes on the spar flange were not quite deep enough. This was creating a gap between the skin and the spar, and needed to be addressed. I experimented with some scrap material and switched my countersink cage. The cage that I was using had some slop in it, and was unpredictable. My other cage is a different design and is much better. I increased the depth of a number of holes, then primed the newly cut holes.

Here’s one side done:

Riveting the skins to ribs:

View of the shop heads. Most of my rivets set perfectly, none were in need of replacement:

Rear spar in position and clecoed to ribs and skin:

Pop rivets set, binding the rear spar to the in-spar ribs:

The inboard and outboard ribs get Universal head rivets, which I will probably squeeze. Then the spar flange will get riveted to the skin, and it will be done!