Drilled spar caps

Tonight I drilled the forward spar caps. These are spar stiffeners that sit inside the spar flange, reinforcing the angle between the spar web and the spar flange. One for the top edge, and one for the bottom. The caps are not pre-punched, and they are slightly bowed, meaning a lot of clamps and Clecos are needed to keep them in position while the holes are match drilled from the spar. Everything looks good, although I anticipate some very minor alignment issues. It’s very hard to keep everything exactly lined up.

Drilling rear spar

Yesterday I drilled, countersink and debuted all of the holes between the Horizontal Stabilizer rear spar and the doubler, and the drilled and deburred the hinge attach brackets.

For all of the final drilling on the doubler, I used a reamer to compare results with the drill bit. There is slightly less burring from the reamer, and it feels like it produces a better result. I tested it first, seen in the picture below.

Today I picked up a few new tools, including a cheap bandsaw to trim some of the thicker pieces that need trimming.

I also clecoed and drilled the flange bearing that makes up the inboard hinge bracket assembly.

Then using the new bandsaw and my vixen file, I trimmed the stringers and spar caps. The bandsaw makes a chattery mess of a cut (I probably need a different blade), but the file cleans it up nicely. A little sanding with scotch brite, and they came out nicely.

Next I’ll be clecoing the spar caps to the front spar, along with the front spar doubler, then doing some more drilling. I’m planing to get all the drilling, deburring and countersinking done, then prime everything (except skin), and then start riveting. This is slightly out of order from the instructions, but the Vans plans have you riveting parts together before priming. I’m sure there’s a really good reason, but it seems counter-intuitive.

Finished deburring, prep for drilling

Tonight I finished up the deburring on the forward spar, and touched up a few other parts. It’s not really “finished” deburring, since I will need to drill a bunch of holes and debur them, but I completed all the edge deburring for all parts. I then spent some time reading ahead and setting up to start drilling the rear spar tomorrow. The first steps include final drilling the spar doubler, and final drilling the hinge attachments. These hinges are where the elevators will attach, much like how the Rudder attaches to the Vertical Stabilizer.

More deburring

After several evening sessions this week, I’m almost finished deburring the HS parts. Tonight I finished the rear spar, which leaves just the forward spar before I’m finished. It’s been quite time consuming with substantially more parts than the VS and Rudder. The vixen file made quick work of the edges of the spar, and left a nice smooth edge. Some polishing with scotch brite and the edge came out great.

Hopefully will be done with the deburring by the weekend.

More deburring

Spent time deburring parts for the Horizontal Stabilizer today. It’s a time consuming process, especially with the ribs which have many corners and crevasses. I’m using a combination of edge deburrers, small round files, small flat files, and maroon colored scotch brite to finish.

The items in the foreground are done, and in the background are next.

I also need to debur both spars, for which I have a new Vixen file, attached to my Dad’s old file handle. This will help on the thicker edges of the spars:

Horizontal stabilizer deburring

I ordered a vixen file, which will be helpful in deburring the edges of the HS spars. These are far too long (10 feet) to use the bench grinder’s scotch brite wheel, and I think a file will be a better approach. The file will be here on Wednesday, but I’ll be out of town until next weekend.

I took the wrap off all the components, labeled them, then started to debur the ribs, doublers, and stringers.

Storing Parts

I built a rack to store the VS and Rudder out of the way while I continue working on the other parts. I managed to find a good spot up high, with (just) enough room to maneuver the parts. I may need to add some padding and some kind of earth-quake safety strap, although I think they are quite secure as-is.

With these tucked away safely, i took the opportunity to tidy up the garage. Then I opened up the crate and pulled out the spars for the Horizontal Stabilizer. These things are long! Here are all the parts for the Horizontal Stabilizer, except the skins which are stashed away safely in the back of a cupboard.

Step 1 was to finish straighten up the spar doublers, which I was able to do easily enough. I peeled the vinyl off the rear spar and doubler in preparation for deburring, then final/match drilling.

Finished Rudder

My work schedule picked up a little in the last week, and I haven’t been able to make much progress. After a few sessions of bending and forming, I was able to cleco the bottom section of the rudder leading edge, and tonight I riveted all 3 leading edge sections. In the middle of the bottom section I had difficulty getting the holes to line up enough to get the fine tolerance pop rivets in. I made a tool to help support the skins from behind while I worked to align the holes and get the rivets in. This worked out quite well in the end, although the whole process took much longer than I had anticipated.

Clecoed and ready to rivet:

The tool:

Part way through:

The finished product:

With the rudder done, I had to get a picture with it next to Vertical Stabilizer. Once I have the aft fuselage done, I’ll be revisiting these parts and fitting them together.

Rudder leading edge

After what seemed like a straightforward exercise, I quickly ran into some difficulty getting the leaded edges rolled correctly. After carefully reading the instructions and doing some research, I bought two lengths of 3/4 inch steel pipe from Home Depot. I traced the cross section templates onto some cardboard, and rolled the top section. Everything went well on the right side, so I flipped the rudder over and did the left top section. Alignment was good, and I could easily cleco the three holes.

I moved to the middle section, and rolled the right hand side. In hindsight I made the mistake of using the short length of tube, which meant I couldn’t get the torque I needed to make the bend as cleanly as I needed. I didn’t fully realize the issue, so instead of fixing it, I moved to the bottom section on the same side and rolled that section. This made it harder to fix the middle section problem, due to interference, which I didn’t realize until later. I flipped the rudder over and rolled the middle section on the left side, but didn’t match the bend radius or location, and ended up with a gap between the two sides.

Squeezing hard, I could make it work, but there’s too much tension, and I’m concerned that the thin skins will crease at the edge of the spar, which is not good.

I stopped there, and decided I needed to experiment some more before proceeding.

Here’s the one bend side on the bottom section, which is not quite the right shape.

Using some string and the template, I marked out locations for the start and stop of the bottom section bend, and transferred it to a scrap of 0.016 aluminum (same as skins). Then, experimenting with where I place the pipe, I made some bends.

The bend on the right is close to the shape I need on the bottom section. This was made with the pipe about 1 inch from the edge of the skin. The bend I made in the bottom section on the rudder was done with the pipe almost flush with the edge of the skin, which is the bend on the left. It’s easy to see the difference between the bends on this test piece, and there is definitely going to be an alignment problem. A secondary issue is that the bottom section bend radius is larger than at the top. For the bottom section, I probably need a larger diameter pipe, perhaps 1 or 1.25 inch instead of the 3/4 I’m using.

I need to fix the middle section first. The primary issue is that the distance between the spar and the start of the bend radius is too large, on both sides, with the left side being worse than the right side. Since the left side overlaps with the right, I’m planning to fix the right side, then the left. Using a string, I’ll mark on the skin the locations I need the bend radius to start and finish. Then using my test piece, I’ll carefully place and tape the long pipe into position and torque. The edge may end up slightly over-bent, but shouldn’t be a problem. Then I’ll switch to the left side, and repeat. It will be harder since the bent right hand side, and the bent bottom sections will be in the way. Hopefully I’ll be able to get enough of a bend to make it work. Once the middle section is aligned, I’ll worry about the bottom section.