Today I primed the aft deck components and some of the top skin reinforcing parts. I used 50 grams of part A, and it was just enough to get a coating I was happy with.
Primed aft deck parts
Deburring aft deck parts
Tonight I spent an hour deburring some of the remaining parts for the aft fuselage. Not much to go now, just some aft deck components, and top skin parts with associated stiffeners.
Angle stiffeners
Tonight I riveted on the two aft angle stiffeners, one on each side, below the inspection cover. This was easy, except for the bottom most rivet on each side. No matter what I tried, I struggled to get a bucking bar on the rivet. It worked out ok on one side, and was a mess on the other. Unfortunately, access to the bottom most rivet is almost impossible, so I have not attempted to replace it, for fear of making the situation worse. I’ll review it with my tech counselor when he comes (hopefully soon).
Inside view of right hand stiffener
Attached rudder stops and nut plates
Today I completed a couple of steps on the aft fuse by attaching the rudder stops and about 30 nut plates.
The rudder stops turned out to be easier than I thought. I was able to start by squeezing the aft two rivets easily, and then bucking the forward two without much trouble. I did the right aft side, then the left aft side, then right forward side, then left. Both came out fine.
Then I dimpled a set of nutplates and started riveting them on. I dimpled 4 nut plates that I shouldn’t have, as I found an error in the drawings. The diagram called out for 9 dimpled nutplates and 5 un-dimpled on each side. But it should have been 7 dimpled and 7 in-dimpled, as there are 7 that sit flush with the longerons. I have a ton of these things, so it didn’t matter at this stage.
I started with all the un-dimpled nutplates, which was quick and easy. Unfortunately I had to drill out a rivet when I inserted it without checking that it was passing through the nutplate. It wasn’t, so I drilled and redid that one.
When I moved onto the dimpled nutplates, I realized I hadn’t held the nutplates steady enough when dimpling. As a result, many of them were slightly bow shaped. This was problematic, as they wouldn’t sit flush against the holes, and had a tendency to break when the second rivet was set. It took me a few nutplates to realize what was going on, and then I drilled out several, dimpled new nutplates (this time holding them level when dimpling), and then re-riveted them on.
The end result was ok. Some of my rivets didn’t set as well as I wanted, but these are not structural, and plenty strong enough to support the screws they will be holding. my main concern was making sure they were straight, aligned with the hole, and not likely to snap off.
Finished inventory
Tonight I finished the inventory of parts for the wings and fuse, everything was there except a few minor pieces of hardware. I sent an email to Vans and detailed the few missing pieces.
I pulled the plans out of their envelopes and combined with those of the tail kit. Once I’m done with the aft fuse, I’ll be going over every step of the wings and fuse plans to make sure everything is completed as expected.
More inventory
More inventorying tonight, for around an hour
More inventory
Spent about an hour and a half tonight doing inventory. Slow process, but important.
Quickbuild Wings and Fuse arrive
Today was a big day! My Quickbuild fuselage and wing kits arrived! I decided to use Stewart Trucking to have it delivered, rather than having it crates and shipped. I’m glad I did, as the whole process was easy and painless. Mike the driver was excellent to work with, and we had the wings and then fuselage down in no time.
The most difficult part of unloading was getting the wings down onto the back of the truck. Mike has 6 pairs of wings, and 5 fuselages in the truck, and my wings were loaded on a rack near the top of the truck. It was slightly awkward getting the wings down, mostly due to the greasy film on the wing surfaces, which is applied to avoid any possible corruption while skipping. Holding a slippery wing over my head, and then trying to lower it down was a bit nerve-wracking, but not very hard. Then we carefully wheeled the cart into the garage.
With the wings off, Mike used the crane to hoist the fuse up, lift it back and out of the truck. With my dolly parked behind the truck, he easily dropped it into position. Weighing in at 600 pounds, we were careful to put it in the middle, and where I wanted it. then it was up into the garage, no problem.
I spent the evening unpacking the plane, and inspecting as best I could. I didn’t see any problems, but I will be doing a through inspection of every step to ensure there are no mistakes. For tonight I was happy to just get the fuse emptied of the various boxes and parts.
Garage cleanup
Tonight I carpeted the fuse dolly, then spent time cleaning out the garage. I used some cheap underlay, and then a cheap carpet, and staples it all down around the sides.
Over the weekend I had broken down my tail kit crate, and last night I built a dolly, so there was a lot of sawdust in the garage. It was really overdue for a clean, so I organized, vacuumed, and wiped down everything I could.
Backriveting bottom skins
This is a compilation of several sessions over the last week. I worked each of the last 5 evenings back riveting the rows of rivets connecting the side and bottom skins, and the bottom most rivets between the side skins and forward two bulkheads.
I decided to back-rivet in part because it gives a better finish, but also because these rivets are impossible to do solo any other way. In theory, back-riveting is easy; lay the part flat on a slab of steel with a rivet inserted in the hole, then put the rivet gun on the shop head and set it. These rivets were tricky because of the curvature of the skin. By using cushions and pillows, and small lengths of timber, I was able to roll the fuselage on it’s side to get the correct angle.
I started with the forward right side and worked aft. I was fairly successful just guessing the angle by closely inspecting where the rivet head appeared to be contacting the plate. Once I had it set up, I could quickly set around 10 rivets before needing to move the plate and re-calibrate.
Everything went well, until I got to the aft most section. I was most concerned about the aft-most rivet, which passes through three parts; the side skin, the aft bottom skin, and a bulkhead flange. By putting a little weight on the fuse, and keeping the angle shallow, I ended up with a great result. But as I worked forward, I didn’t roll the fuse enough and ended up setting 8 rivets with too shallow of an angle. Part of the rivet head on these rivets protruded from the skin, and needed to be replaced.
I spent an evening removing these 8 rivets, most came out easy but two of them gave me trouble.
I didn’t enlarge any holes, so I redid these eight the next night with the same size 3-3.5 rivets. This time, I went slowly and used my iPhone’s digital level to record the angles. 10 degrees of roll for the bottom/side skins worked great, and about 26 degrees for the next holes up on the bulkheads seemed about right.
Eventually the right hand side came out looking great. Then it was on to the left hand side.
After some experimenting, I found that the angle at which the gun contacts the rivet head is critical for getting a good looking head. Any slight angle, and the heads don’t set straight. A had a few rivets that weren’t quite level on the shop head, but I left them in and moved on. For the most part though, the heads looked great.
I had no trouble with the left hand side, I just used the digital level to ensure I was getting as close to 10 degrees as possible, and 26 on the couple of bulkhead rivets. I worked from the aft end forward, and was done in about 45 minutes. Most of the time was spent adjusting the angle of the fuselage, and checking that the hull was flat against the back riveting plate.
